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That Monday night wasn’t just another dinner service. It marked one of the very first glimpses into The Crown by Kirk Westaway, an exclusive preview disguised as a media tasting, where guests were invited to experience a 13-course journey crafted by the Michelin-starred chef himself.
Perched on the 22nd floor of the Fairmont Hotel, The Crown overlooks Jakarta’s bustling streets. From up here, the city’s clamor softens into a distant hum as the sky melts into a dramatic swirl of orange and pink. Inside, there’s a quiet rhythm of managers giving last-minute instructions, with jazz humming gently in the background.
The interiors echo this balance of elegance and ease: granite and wood textures wrap the space, punctuated by metallic maps of London. At the center is a striking sculpture—a sheep named Winston, seated before an artful installation of sheep tumbling down a cliff. For the occasion, he’s joined by a cheeky companion, a figurine of Shawn the Sheep.
Every corner of the space suggests it’s a thoughtful place, but what about the food?
A culinary overture
The night opened with a good pour—Winston Churchill’s favorite champagne, the French Pol Roger Brut Réserve. Dry and crisp, with just enough fruity acidity, it set a playful, elegant tone.
Then came the snacks: a beetroot meringue, goose mousse and cheddar cheese pancake. Each bite teased the palate with texture and contrast. The beetroot’s tartness gave way to the mousse’s caramel crunch, followed by a cheesy croquette that melted like lava in your mouth.
Devon is famous for its dairy, Chef Kirk reminds us. Consider that proven. Even the bread came with whipped butter infused with thyme and shaved Amalfi lemon.
The leek and potato soup arrived in a small bowl, spoonless. The creamy potato blend with charred leek broth was meant to be sipped like hot ocha. Topped with crispy potato bits, it was light but deeply comforting—no wonder it's one of the UK’s favorite soups.
The last appetizer, a tomato salad with basil sorbet and homemade ketchup, was served with breadsticks. Aside from the cherry tomatoes, the dish leaned on the tougher side. Still, it worked as a palate cleanser before the mains.
Seafood and steak
When the staff asked if I ate pork, my eyes lit up.
First came a seafood plate: scallop with asparagus, lettuce and pork pancetta, tied together with a pour of foamy pea soup. The dish balanced sweetness, salt and a hint of earthiness—like spring on a plate. The scallop stood strong on its own, but the pancetta gave it an extra punch.
Next, the wagyu striploin: tender and rich, served with celeriac and the classic British reform sauce. For a carnivore, it’s a win.
To pair, we switched to a glass of Ca’ Marcanda Promis Toscana 2021—a blend of Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese. It’s bold and full-bodied — not exactly what I would choose, but it worked perfectly with the steak.
And though both main courses were beautiful, the mashed potatoes nearly stole the show. Creamy and smooth, topped with those same crispy bits from the soup, they had me piling them onto every bite of steak. No regrets.
A playful finale
Dessert started with the Mandarin, a citrus salad served in a martini glass, crowned with a delicate lemon-shaped sweet. Then came a burst of theatrical flair: the waiters revealed cheese hidden in the dish with a dramatic cloud of ice mist. Inviting, unexpected and a little mysterious—it added a touch of magic to the evening.
I thought we would get at least a subtle hint of Earl Grey based on the menu, but no such luck—maybe it meant the pairing tea that I declined.
Next came the Strawberry Eton Mess. Almost too pretty to eat, but I devoured it in under a minute. A mix of vanilla, yogurt and lime, it tasted like a deconstructed strawberry shortcake.
The grand finale is three petits fours full of cocoa nibs: a sharp, zesty Lemon Meringue Pie, a Blood Orange Fruit Pastel (basically, a Turkish delight) and Coffee & Chocolate Bonbon.
Now, that bonbon was tiny but packed with so much flavor. It served a rich burst of chocolate before ending with a hint of bitter coffee. A sweet ending to an amazing night.
Worth the crown?
For a city that loves new fine dining, The Crown hits more than it misses—and that’s what matters most.
Will I come back? Absolutely.
Will I choose to do the set menu? Maybe not.
It’s worth the splurge. After all, not every dinner comes with a skyline and a sheep named Winston.
