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Easy to prepare, convenient to eat and affordable in their most basic form, there’s a certain kind of satisfaction you get from sandwiches.
Arguably, much of this appeal comes right down to its quick-and-easy simplicity: a choice of protein dressed up with bits of toppings and condiments, squeezed between two slices of humble bread. Anything else is practically fine dining, really.
But here’s the question: Is there space for upmarket variations of the plebeian staple? If so, are people willing to pay a premium for a sit-down experience of what’s typically grab-and-go?
Judging by the crowds that propelled Club Sando’s transition from pop-up joint to established eatery, it seems so.
Following a year of international pop-ups across Southeast Asia, Club Sando has found itself a home in the heart of a sleepy neighborhood in South Jakarta. Situated on Jl. Cilandak Dalam No. 3A, the new venue promises to offer both food and music for the soul for those looking to unplug and wind down.
With a homey, welcoming feel, Club Sando’s first permanent location is an introvert’s enclave from the get-go. The outdoor garden tables are ideal for casual conversations when the weather permits, while the rather small dining room allows for a quieter dining experience.
But the real draw is the culture room on the second floor.
Sure, the climb is steep, but the cafe-style space more than makes up for the effort. It features a front-and-center bar for chatting with the barista, sizable windows to gaze into the quiet streets and a curated playlist to ease you into a relaxed mood.
Speaking of tunes, Club Sando’s music connection is well-established with First Sundays, with live performances every first Sunday of each month. Specifically for its opening weekend on Oct. 26, singer-comedian Windy Liem linked up with Yoko a.k.a. DJ Mellowman, and diners can expect more cultural events to follow.
But what about the food?
Remastered and refined
Red-eyed students and harangued office workers will likely be familiar with sandwiches like the chocolate sprinkle-and-Nutella combo, or the slightly chilled convenience store special.
Club Sando’s fare, on the other hand, brings a decadent touch to street food escapades.
The Japanese-inspired, hearty yet simple katsu sando gets a sumptuous boost via a 120g cut of Cape Grim chateaubriand (beef filet cut from the center of the tenderloin) for its house tonkatsu as a substitute for pork. Tender but deceptively compact, each bite is as filling as can be, with particularly ravenous diners likely to have no qualms about the portion.
Its take on prawn toast, a popular Cantonese dim sum staple commonly found in Hong Kong, is similarly indulgent.
There is a certain joie de vivre in the sesame-crusted hand-chopped tiger prawn, seasoned in a melange of more than 20 spices and ingredients, which presents a strong argument for the dish’s status as the joint’s pièce de résistance. While the embellishments of prawn-head mayo, scallion, charred corn and katsuobushi certainly play their role, the prawn and house-made brioche get top billing.
Spices seem to be the name of the game at Club Sando, with its breakfast sando peppered with Balinese-style bumbu genep (mixed spices). Though it resembles a very “yassified” Sausage McMuffin with its house-made English muffin, cheddar cheese and soft scrambled eggs, the spiced chicken bakso patty is unlike any other, wonderfully salty with hints of tropical fruits seeping in.
Ditto with the signature C.K.B., or the Chikin Kari Burger, which brings to mind the curry dips of Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore. While normally enjoyed with prata flatbread, dipping the unassuming chicken thigh burger into the unctuous curry is a seasoned journey across Nusantara.
Of course, there are non-sandwich options like curry rice, pasta, bitterballen (Dutch meat-based snack) or the ubiquitous nasi goreng. But honestly, skipping the sandwiches here feels like missing the point.
Instead, have a pandan pana cotta (“pandan kotta”, as they call it) to cleanse your palate, or have another round of spices with a glass of bir pletok (Betawi-style herbs and spices drink) or jamu tonic, which are light enough as a drink to accompany the meal instead of an overpowering, throat-punching health supplement.
Josa Lukman is an editor and head of the Creative Desk at The Jakarta Post. He is also a margarita enthusiast who chases Panadol with Tolak Angin, a hoarder of former "it" bags and an iced latte slurper.
