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About a decade ago, my treks to Bali would have involved drinks and dance music, but now all I long for are peaceful mornings and sunset views away from the traffic and crowds.
So when an invitation for a weekend stay at LXR’s first resort in Southeast Asia landed in my inbox, my sunhat, shades and swimwear practically packed themselves up.
A quick half-hour journey from Ngurah Rai International Airport, Umana Bali sits near the southernmost tip of the island, perched some 70 meters upon the limestone cliffs of Uluwatu.
Welcoming me as I stepped out of the car was a property distinctly Balinese yet modernized, followed by warm smiles from the staff as they assisted me with my luggage and check-in process.
A full disclosure before we go: the stay was complimentary, but my opinions in this review are an honest reflection of my experiences.
A sanctuary from the world
Checking into my private villa, at least for the three days I was there, I was greeted by both vastness and remoteness.
Umana Bali’s 72 villas start from 403 square meters for a one-bedroom, all the way to a sprawling 1,200 square meter three-bedroom with ocean views and its own spa treatment room, dedicated entertainment room and a baby grand piano in the living room.
The one I stayed in, a one-bedroom ocean villa, was very generously sized and well-appointed. In fact, perhaps too generous for a party of one, I counted 10 strides for me to walk from the living room to the bedroom, though a couple or a young family might make better use of the space.
After setting down my bag, unpacking my luggage and thoroughly settling in, what I noticed most was the tranquility of it all.
The floor-to-ceiling windows opened up to scenic vistas of waves crashing on the shores of Melasti Beach below. For a moment I was transfixed by how serene my surroundings were, despite the afternoon sun bearing down on me.
With an outdoor jetted whirlpool, blackout curtains and 400-thread-count sheets, Umana Bali was obviously quite indulgent when it comes to its villas’ amenities, but all this aside, there was a sense of being isolated on an island that often feels crowded.
Not necessarily isolation, perhaps solitude might be a better word for it.
During my stay, I was informed that the resort had a 70 percent occupancy rate, but it never once felt like it. At times I was under the impression that it was just me, my thoughts and a king-sized bed with direct access to a private infinity-edge pool overlooking the Indian Ocean.
Though the white sands beckoned just over yonder, between waiting for a shuttle headed to Uma Beach House or making the trek myself on foot, I was content with making the most of the villa.
The private pool, after all, makes for a mighty fine preposition to accompany the pinks and purples of sundown, ideally with a margarita in hand.
Moments of immersion
After a good night’s sleep and a quiet breakfast at Commune restaurant, Saturday brought me the first of my experiences at the resort.
My itinerary for the three-day stay included an hour of massage at the Lohma Spa, which used gemstones and specially blended oils for a revitalizing session, very much welcomed given how much I wanted to unwind from the previous week’s meetings and articles.
That was followed by a Balinese cooking class at Commune, where I had the opportunity to make my own take on sambal matah (Balinese raw chili relish) and sate lilit (minced meat satay), which I think was pretty good if I do say so myself. Guests also have the option to do the experience in a local Balinese home kitchen, where they can learn how to cook the local way.
The next morning just before checking out, I also took part in an Indonesian coffee tasting session at Mer Lounge, where I familiarized myself with the archipelago’s beans and their stories. Since my regular order is a very sweet iced vanilla latte, some of the nuances were sadly lost on my neophyte tastebuds, but coffee aficionados would likely feel right at home.
Beyond my preset activities, each villa at Umana Bali has a dedicated curator, serving as a personal guide to everything the resort and the local area has to offer. These range from in-villa dinners, day trips and helicopter tours to a full day at the golf course.
Perhaps another day.
As I bid the resort and its thoughtful staff farewell, I couldn't help but wonder: sometimes going south is all that you need.
