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In a city where new eateries pop up every week, offering flavors from Minang to Marseille, Mediterranean restaurants remain surprisingly rare.
Friends and restaurateurs Dalia Kuwatly, Anggakara and Narantara “Tara” Sitepu opened Salted Olive in February to change that, bringing herbaceous, aromatic comfort food closer to home.
“It feels like bringing my heritage closer to me,” says Dalia, whose father is of Arabic descent.
“It enables me to be more creative in something that means most to me: food and cooking.”
Tucked away on Jl. Wijaya II in Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta, Salted Olive feels like a small escape.
Think vibrant tiles, quirky artworks and souk-inspired lamps that glow against the soft bistro lighting. The space is cozy and welcoming, and waitstaff in tie-dye shirts greet diners on each floor, adding warmth and laid-back charm.
The menu declares its intent upfront: “A Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-inspired restaurant where we share, dip and play around with our food.”
The tone sets the stage for a contemporary meal that celebrates variety. At Salted Olive, there are no rules; no wrong pairings, no right way to dip.
To help me enjoy the full experience, Tara took the lead, ordering a spread of signature dishes.
Fattoush
We began with the classic fattoush, a vibrant salad made of mixed greens and chopped vegetables tossed in a zesty dressing, topped with feta for tang and texture.
A staple throughout the Middle East, it’s light but flavorful, the kind of dish that wakes your palate before the mains. Naturally, it is served with pita bread, because what’s a Mediterranean meal without it?
A side of fries with spicy mayo soon followed, hinting at the restaurant’s playful streak.
Watermelon Salad
Apparently, my grandmother’s prayers for me to incorporate more vegetables and fruits in my diet have finally been answered.
Served on a base of mint honey and strained yogurt, the watermelon salad was an unexpected hit. The dressing struck the perfect balance between sweet and tangy, clinging beautifully to each bite of watermelon and orange.
I immediately decided the creamy, refreshing and dangerously addictive sauce was my go-to dip for the rest of the meal.
Lamb Arayes
Though I enjoyed the greens, my heart still gravitates toward animal protein.
This dish features pita pockets stuffed with seasoned, ground lamb and cheese. Crunchy on the outside, tender within and piping hot, each bite was bliss.
I love that they come in smaller portions, making them easy to share (or not).
The meal comes with its own sauce, but I couldn’t resist dipping them into the leftover honey-yogurt dressing from the watermelon salad. After all, there are no rules for dipping here, so why not?
Rice Pilaf
Then came the showstopper: rice pilaf topped with lamb.
The menu says it serves two to three people, but I disagree: It could easily feed six. Still, we barely made a dent.
The first spoonful was a revelation: aromatic herbs, rich spices and a light crunch from crushed Balinese peanuts. The lamb was tender and flavorful, perfectly balanced by the sour yogurt sauce, laced with the house spice blend.
Full disclosure: I’ll choose pilaf over regular jasmine rice any day. That’s already an easy A. Add the tender lamb, and everything falls into place.
Absolutely no notes. Ten out of ten.
Roasted Lamb
If one dish left me unsure, it was the roasted lamb. I don’t see it as a favorite, but it has potential.
While tender, I wish it had a bit more juiciness. The gravy certainly helps, but not enough to lift the whole dish completely. The yogurt at the bottom earns points for adding layers to the meal, so it still comes out all right in the end.
The plating is visually stunning and inviting, with sambal and two whole chili peppers, but as someone scared of spiciness, it looks a bit intimidating.
Feta Roll
While we didn’t order dessert, this dish might as well count as one.
Feta rolls about the size of a candy bar are wrapped in pita bread with a gooey cheese center, drizzled with chili honey sauce. Sweet, salty and surprisingly light, it’s a dessert disguised as an appetizer.
I usually avoid spicy fare but I couldn’t resist this sauce, which complemented the saltiness of the melted cheese.
And yes, my lactose intolerance protested afterward. But honestly? It was worth it.
Spritzes
We ended our spread with two spritzes: honey lemon and chilled cucumber, both refreshing.
The honey-lemon spritz leans tart, and though I could detect no trace of honey, it was still excellent. The cucumber spritz had lost its fizz by the time it reached me (the ice melted too quickly), but it was still clean and refreshing. It hit the spot after a rich meal.
Final verdict
So, did Salted Olive satisfy my craving for Mediterranean food? Yes. And more.
Having spent six years cooking and eating with Turkish and Greek friends, Salted Olive has the authentic feel of a Mediterranean feast while bravely blending its own contemporary take.
This won’t be my last visit.
Jakarta can never have too many Mediterranean eateries. The connection between Middle Eastern and Southeast Asian flavors – spices, herbs and shared warmth – feels almost ancestral.
As an inhabitant of this “archipelago of spices”, we deserve food like this within reach.
