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I’ve never been a morning person. Breakfast holds all the appeal of a root canal and lunch seems perpetually rushed.
So when an invitation to try out COPA’s new brunch service landed in my inbox, I figured I was the best candidate to bridge the gap between these two very important meals, especially if glasses of bubbly are involved.
Making its debut on July 13, the Odd Sunday Brunch jazzes up Central Jakarta’s brunch scene every odd-dated Sunday, just like the name suggests. Still, it might be a slight misnomer, as the noon-to-3 p.m. timeslot is more lunch than brunch, at least in my book.
Naming conventions aside, the brunch service is what you’d expect from an eclectic spot attached to The Oddbird at 25hours Hotel, a maximalist retro-urban gem in SCBD’s glass and metal cage.
With its vibrant decor and lush outdoor space, COPA’s eccentric ambiance brightened an otherwise cloudy and windy Sunday, promising a vivacity that complemented its spicy Latin offerings.
After setting my bag down, I started scouting for something light to kick off the culinary journey, only to be distracted by a mimosa, a Rossini and the outdoor live grill station.
All the meat
I began by sampling the lomo vetado, the Chilean-style grilled ribeye with pebre sauce, which was tender enough to please but bold enough to stand up to the longaniza a la parrilla—beef chorizo served with criolla salsa—that followed.
After those two, the lemon-marinated chicken a las Brazas seemed a bit plain by comparison. Maybe I should have started with the chicken before moving on to the heavy hitters.
Momentarily sated after having my fill of grilled goodness, the taco station felt like a reasonable detour before easing into the open buffet, though hindsight suggests I should have paced myself better.
The slightly dry beef asada failed to live up to expectations, but the chicken quesadilla more than made up for it. Its rich, peppery blend of spices lingered long enough for me to consider seconds (or thirds, maybe even fourths).
The buffet
Finally refocusing, I grabbed a glass of kombucha to refuel, and dove into the buffet. It certainly had something for everyone, which is perfect given how COPA’s clientele that Sunday was a mix of families, friends and probably a soft-launched relationship or two.
Though the restaurant prides itself on Latin American cuisine, most Indonesians would feel at home courtesy of the arroz chaufa—the Peruvian take on fried rice—and the empanadas, particularly the seafood-and-cheese combo that I had to physically stop myself from hoarding them like it was my last meal.
The selection of side dishes deserves a special mention too: the crispy potato jalapeños (mild yet savory until you actually bite into the jalapeño pepper), the Mexican grilled corn (the only time I actually looked forward to corn) and the house tortilla chips (I’d hand over my savings for a full bag).
Did I bravely attempt to conquer the entire brunch buffet? Absolutely. And what an ambitious thought it was at the time.
My strategy for next time will be simple: Once I’d piled on the grilled meats, the buffet would serve best as a supporting act.
The secret is patience: Pace yourself and place your à la carte orders early (yes, they’re part of the buffet, too).
The verdict
Did I get sidetracked by the churro station, the dessert table full of sweet treats and a sinfully tantalizing chocolate fountain? Without question.
And I will not apologize for how fast I inhaled the rich yet airy tiramisu, or how I went back for the churros not once, not twice, but thrice. They’re easily the best I’ve had in Jakarta.
Did I regret my gluttonous decision after seeing the waitstaff wheel out carts of paella, sorbet and some other thing I was too engrossed to notice? Maybe just the tiniest bit, but you bet your cocktail I’d visit again.
For the Odd Sunday Brunch’s starting price of Rp 498,000 per person, you certainly get a lot of bang for your buck, even with the extra charge for the free-flow alcohol. By your third mimosa, it’s practically a deal.
Between COPA’s Rossini, salsa and the chocolate-covered brownie that made me see stars, I might just wake up early the next odd Sunday—converted, ravenous and beelining straight to the dessert table.
