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Carbs are so easily demonized these days, with so many TikTok videos and Instagram Reels pushing protein and suggesting we swap pasta for zucchini noodles. But at Privy Italian American Steakhouse in South Jakarta, carbs get their redemption arc, and then some.
What started as a simple dinner invite turned into a night of delightful discovery through a special collaboration with Rustichella d’Abruzzo, a century-old Italian pasta brand.
Full of unexpected pairings, comforting flavors and pasta shapes I didn’t even know existed, every bite felt like a delectable rebellion against diet culture.
Pasta salad starter
We started with fregola salad and roasted vegetables.
As a self-proclaimed gluten glutton, I’m always fascinated to discover a new kind of pasta I haven’t met before, and fregola is one of them. Small, round and almost pepper-like, these Sardinian pearls take a patient 14 to 17 minutes to boil and are usually found floating in soups.
This time, they showed up in an appetizing salad that was light, oniony, limey, herby and surprisingly filling for a starter.
But what caught me off guard was the real star: the olive oil. Rustichella d’Abruzzo’s Extra Virgin Olive Oil doesn’t have a heavy, grassy scent. Even when tasted on its own (served with a side of warm focaccia), it was light, aromatic and simply good. You can taste the quality in that delicate finish that lingers in your mouth.
But it was 7 p.m. and we were there for the main dishes, not salads.
Ricotta-Stuffed Conchiglioni with Prosciutto and Fennel
I love it when restaurants give their dishes self-explanatory names instead of something artsy name that makes me go “huh” and ask what's actually in it.
Here, we got large shell-shaped pasta stuffed with ricotta, sitting in a thick onion and fennel soup and topped with crispy prosciutto, but made from beef bacon in my no-pork version.
It was beautifully plated, and even better on the palate.
Onions are inherently sweet, so the dish almost feels like a hearty dessert. But the pasta grounds it, reminding you that yes, this is still a savory main course. Ten out of ten.
Chestnut Laganelle-Tartufo
Chef Jonathan Tek mentioned that most of the dishes served that night were experimental, and this chestnut pasta was the most experimental of all.
“Chestnut has an earthy taste and here it meets truffle, so I believe the umami will feel familiar to the Indonesian palate,” he explained.
Naturally, I got excited.
The ribbonlike laganelle came coated in a thick sauce that clung beautifully to each strip, with a gentle sweetness rarely found here. (I mean, how often do you find chestnuts in Jakarta aside from in a cake?)
The truffle was evident but never overpowering, and the Parmesan tied it all together neatly.
Orecchiette Pumpkin Soup
Next came the soup and by this point, I suspected sweetness might be the evening’s running theme.
As expected, the pumpkin soup was naturally sweet and hence comforting, like a warm hug from your grandma, but with added depth from the ear-shaped pasta. (Orecchiette literally means “little ears” in Italian; I love how straightforward everything is.)
The pasta had that thick, chewy texture reminiscent of gnocchi. It felt like having carbs on carbs, but when it’s this good, who’s complaining?
My no-pork version came with beef bacon bits, which added a nice, chewy crunch to balance it all out.
Spaghetti Pomodoro with Basil
Having visited the Privy group’s other establishments, I already knew that it (and Italian cuisine in general) does simple best. So I had a feeling this humble mix of tomato, garlic and basil would be wonderful.
It’s so straightforward that Chef Jon even demonstrated how to make it on the spot. But to paraphrase him, different hands yield different results.
I picked up a few new tidbits along the way: Sliced garlic gives a slightly stronger flavor than diced. Italians don’t actually love garlic as much as Indonesians do. Sauté the garlic first, set it aside, and then sauté the cherry tomatoes in fresh oil so the garlic doesn’t burn.
But simple doesn’t mean easy.
It takes experience to perfect that balance, and this dish is a testament to that: grated Parmesan, finely chopped basil for spreading its fragrance evenly (unlike the perfunctory, “just drop a few leaves and call it done” approach), a touch of tomato purée, quality olive oil and garlic that’s golden, never bitter, all coming together in quiet perfection.
Stockyard Rib Eye Gold MS3 with Mashed Potatoes and Demi-Glace Sauce
To wrap up our gastronomic journey, we were served rib eye steak with mashed potatoes, always a good pairing.
Since we were dining with several head chefs, the standard was sky-high. The steak had perfect char and was perfectly medium rare. Chef Jon even joked, “You’re all chefs. No one wants well done, right?”
The demi-glace was exceptional and that’s saying something, because it’s rare for a sauce to actually elevate a steak.
I don’t speak marbling or beef grades, but I can confidently say this: Privy’s medium-rare rib eye was one of the best I’ve ever had.
Tiramisu Classico
We ended the night with the obligatory tiramisu, as one should.
I asked Chef Jon whether the tiramisu served across the Privy Hospitality Group’s establishments were the same, since I particularly liked Sola’s version.
“Same recipe, different hands, so each will be slightly different,” he said.
At Sola and Mozzeria, the tiramisu is preprepared, allowing the coffee and liquor to seep deeper into the ladyfingers.
At Privy’s, it’s made to order so it's still a little crisp at the base. It’s a subtle difference but if you’re fussy like me, you’ll know exactly which one to go for.
Final verdict
If you’re craving something hearty and satisfying beyond your usual aglio olio (or, heaven forbid, a “carbonara” made with cream), head to Privy at The Dharmawangsa Square and try its seasonal lineup. You’re in for a treat.
Ricotta-stuffed conchiglioni and Orecchiette Pumpkin Soup are available from Nov. 3 to 16 for a limited two-week run.
Unfortunately, Spaghetti Pomodoro with Basil will not be featured on the menu. But if you’re intrigued, Privy has a similar option called Spaghetti All’amtriciana that you can try.
As for the Chestnut Laganelle and Fregola Salad, we can only hope they’ll make a public appearance someday.
The good news: the rib eye and tiramisu are permanent fixtures.
And if the carb guilt hits later, the mall where Privy is located is surrounded by Pilates, yoga and fitness studios.
After all, life’s too short to put off carbs.
