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IS ONE BITE really all it takes to fall in love?
For a very long time, I struggled to find joy in eating. But in August 2023, while nursing a broken heart, I decided to treat myself to a nice meal at FED by Made in Seminyak, Bali. I was intrigued by what I saw on social media; a minimalist six-dish set menu served against a refreshing pop of blue, in stark contrast to the rest of the restaurants on Jalan Kunti.
That meal changed how I felt about food, my senses and even myself. It felt like a declaration of self-care, like a scene right out of Ratatouille.
Back then, the restaurant only served set menus in private dinners. But it has since renovated and reopened to embrace walk-ins, with an open bar and à la carte dishes. When I again found myself in Bali for the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival in October, I decided to go back for more.
Starters and cocktails
Dining with a friend this time, we started with pork croquette with spiced apple chutney and a chickpea fritter topped with smoked fish and chervil, a sensational way to begin our meal.
Both were vibrantly flavorful, with the ingredients’ inherent sweetness perfectly balanced with the savory umami in the condiments, and both were fried to a golden crisp. The toppings reminded me of a mesh that allowed the main ingredients to peek through.
One thing I’ve realized about FED is that it knows how to create a perfect sensory experience with each dish: From the textures to the aroma and even the aftertaste, each detail is remarkably a star, yet nothing overwhelms.
FED’s crafty cocktails have also been expanded. I ordered Smoke and Hustle, their take on a negroni that somehow doesn’t contain what makes a classic negroni. Yet it resembled the classic drink’s flavor profile: Bitter and slightly medicinal, aromatic and smoky with its Scotch whiskey base and finished with a twist of yuzu. Strong and addicting, I became even more of a fan.
My friend ordered Kopiko, a twist on an espresso martini that replicates the flavor of the iconic candy; sweet, milky and delicate, with a hint of nuttiness from almond milk and spiced rum.
On to the mains
Seafood was next. Known for using seasonal ingredients, FED always picks the freshest fish. The ceviche came with pineapple ajo blanco; a cold, white soup that was slightly tangy, nutty and almost airy. In contrast, the grilled mackerel had a crisp skin over meat so tender it was life changing.
For a new experience, we tried the beef tartare, served with a side of shiso leaves that brilliantly offset the richness of the steak and topped with a chili-sumac sauce.
Without a doubt, however, the star of the night was the duck agnolotti served with brown butter. Instead of citrus zest, the dish innovatively incorporated mandarin peel. Agnolotti is a pillow-shaped stuffed pasta with dimpled edges designed to hold more sauce.
The duck itself was tender and peppery, enriched by its own umami duck fat and the fragrance of sweet orange peel. The brown butter sauce, which was silky, luscious and almost inappropriately sensual, coated every bite of perfectly al dente pasta, lingering with a hint of pepper and caramelized sweetness. Like true love, it lets you surrender.
When we thought we couldn’t have our minds blown any further, the desserts proved us wrong. The seasonal snake fruit was turned into the most buttery pound cake we’ve ever had, and then served with a side of smoked vanilla ice cream. As a big fan of smoked vanilla, I must say I’ll be thinking about that one scoop for the rest of my life.
Then came the chocolate sorbet. Made with 96% local dark cocoa, it might have made me a chocolate fan. I’ve never had chocolate this smooth and decadent before, showcasing chocolate with a character that truly lingered. Again, it was so good it truly felt inappropriate.
A world of their own
FED has a strong personality that feels brave, as it is passionate about its vision, yet thoughtful. It knows what it brings to the table and that permeates every aspect of the dining experience.
FED also knows what to bring to the ears. Its new music program runs on weekends as an extension of the team’s personal taste. Head chef Made Dhanu and co-founder Nikolas Artha explained how they once controlled Spotify from the kitchen, choosing tracks based on the crowd’s energy.
“We have a strict no-beach-club music policy,” they laughed. “We love having friends and regulars play their music here, it’s like a playground!”
While occasionally doing pop-ups in Melbourne, Jakarta and beyond, it appears FED’s heart will always stay in Bali. Dhanu and Nikolas both said they don’t see themselves expanding with franchises.
“Everyday is a new day for us!” they said.
Their world at FED is built with such care that, when you visit, you can feel that admiration in every detail.
Felicia Melody writes about lifestyle, beauty and fashion (and all things related to passion) from Jakarta. Some may say she’s all over the place, but she’s really just “always somewhere”.
